Every Dress Needs Them: How to Add Inseam Pockets to Any Dress
Stop settling for pocketless fashion and learn how to add hidden inseam pockets to any dress or skirt in your closet. Our step-by-step sewing tutorial includes a free printable pocket pattern template to make drafting a breeze. Discover how to open up an existing side seam and seamlessly stitch in functional, gap-free pockets for the ultimate wardrobe upgrade!
The three best words in fashion? ‘It has pockets!’ We’ve all been there…we put on a dress (or a skirt) and realize we have no where to hold our phone or lip balm or even our hands!
Adding side inseam pockets is one of the easiest and worthwhile sewing upgrades you can make, and once you’ve done it once, you’ll want to add pockets to almost everything you own.
This inseam pocket tutorial works for casual dresses, formal dresses, skirts, and even lightweight coats. You only need a small amount of fabric, a few sewing tools, and a bit of patience. The process is beginner-friendly and can usually be completed in under an hour.
You’ll learn how to draft a simple pocket shape, position it correctly, sew it cleanly into the side seam, and avoid bulky or awkward pockets.
Why You’ll Love This Project
- Adds functional inseam pockets to almost any dress
- Beginner-friendly sewing project with simple techniques
- Uses inexpensive materials and fabric scraps
- Works for handmade dresses and ready-to-wear clothing
- A great way to customise clothing for comfort and practicality
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Materials Needed
- Pocketless dress or skirt with side seams
- Similar weight and colored fabric
- Basic inseam pocket printable pattern
- Fabric scissors
- Seam ripper
- Sewing machine and matching thread
- Pins and marking chalk
How to Add Inseam Pockets to Any Dress
Preparing the Side Seams
Measure 10” from the underarm point of the dress. You can adjust this placement as needed is it’s most confortable.
Mark that point and then measure down another 6” from the first point. Mark the second point.
Using a pair of seam rippers, open the side seams between the two marked points and extend the opening about ½” to 1” past the marked points.
This will be the opening to the inseam pocket bag.
Cutting the Pocket Bags
Print the pocket bag pattern at home using an 8.5”x11” copy paper and tape the papers together aligning the red border.
Lay the pattern piece over top of the fabric you plan to use.
Keep in mind, I’m using a contrast colored fabric with a noticeable wrong and right side so it’s clear for you. But it’s best to use a similar colored fabric so that it won’t be visible on the dress.
Cut out 2 layers of fabric with RIGHT sides of the fabric facing each other and cut along the solid line of the pattern, noting the grainline on the pattern. Ensure to align the arrow with the grainline of your fabric.
Flip the pattern piece and cut another two layers of fabric for the second pocket bag.
Sewing the Pocket Bags
Working one side pocket at a time: ensure the dress is right side out.
With RIGHT sides of the fabric facing each other, align the straight edge of the pocket opening with the FRONT seam allowance of the dress, matching small circles. Pin together.
Repeat this last step with the BACK seam allowance of the dress as well.
Next, at the sewing machine, sew the layers together, removing the pins as you sew.
Press seam allowance towards the dress side.
Turn the dress wrong side out and align the pocket bag pieces with the right sides together. Sew pocket bag pieces together with a ½” seam allowance from small circle to small circle.
Lastly, align the seam allowance of the dress, sandwiching the pocket bag pieces in between. Secure the ends (top and bottom) of the pocket opening by sewing from the open seam to the small circle marks on the dress.
Turn dress right side out and repeat with the other pocket bag to complete!
How to Add Pockets to a Lined Dress
If the dress has lining, open the side seams for the lining as well and then add the pocket bag as instructed above treating the lining and outer fabric as one.
Best Fabric for Inseam Pockets
Lightweight woven fabrics work best for most dresses since heavy and thick fabrics can create excess bulk.
Enlarging the pocket bags
Pocket depth can easily be customised. Larger pockets are useful for phones and keys.
Print off the pattern as instructed and using a pencil, redraw the curve line of the pocket bag to enlarge the size. Maintain the opening as is.
Pockets ARE A GIRLS BEST FRIEND
Once you learn how to add inseam pockets to a dress, it quickly becomes one of those sewing skills you use again and again. The process is simple, affordable, and makes handmade or store-bought clothing far more wearable. A dress with pockets just make sense!
More Sewing Projects and Free Printable Sewing Patterns
- Beach Cover Up Sewing Pattern
- Free Apron Sewing Pattern
- Women’s Free Bucket Hat Sewing Pattern
- Ultimate Guide to Sewing a French Seam
- How to Sew a Button Like a Pro
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Every Dress Needs Them: How to Add Inseam Pockets to Any Dress
Materials
- Dress or skirt with side seams
- Similar weight and colored fabric
- Basic inseam pocket printable pattern
- Fabric scissors
- Seam ripper
- Sewing machine and matching thread
- Pins and marking chalk
Instructions
- Measure 10” from the underarm point of the dress.
- Mark that point and then measure down another 6” from the first point. Mark the second point.
- Using a pair of seam rippers, open the side seams between the two marked points and extend the opening about ½” to 1” past the marked points.
- This will be the opening to the inseam pocket bag.
- Print the pocket bag pattern at home using an 8.5”x11” copy paper and tape the papers together aligning the red border.
- Lay the pattern piece over top of the fabric you plan to use.
- Cut out 2 layers of fabric with RIGHT sides of the fabric facing each other and cut along the solid line of the pattern, noting the grainline on the pattern. Ensure to align the arrow with the grainline of your fabric.
- Flip the pattern piece and cut another two layers of fabric for the second pocket bag.
- Working one side pocket at a time.
- Ensure the dress is right side out.
- With RIGHT sides of the fabric facing each other, align the straight edge of the pocket opening with the FRONT seam allowance of the dress, matching small circles. Pin together.
- Repeat this last step with the BACK seam allowance of the dress as well.
- Next, at the sewing machine, sew the layers together, removing the pins as you sew.
- Press seam allowance towards the dress side.
- Turn the dress wrong side out and align the pocket bag pieces with the right sides together. Sew pocket bag pieces together with a ½” seam allowance from small circle to small circle.
- Lastly, align the seam allowance of the dress, sandwiching the pocket bag pieces in between. Secure the ends (top and bottom) of the pocket opening by sewing from the open seam to the small circle marks on the dress.
- Turn dress right side out and repeat with the other pocket bag to complete!
